Stage 2 of the GR 121 is a walk of two halves, but certainly worth walking.
When the first half of a football/soccer game is totally different from the second, the commentator will often describe it – rather unimaginatively – as “a game of two halves.” This stage of the GR 121 is most definitely “a route of two halves.”
First Half (La Roche to Genappe)
La Roche (Brabant) railway station is a humble start for the walk. It’s so decrepit that there’s not even a bench to sit on. But as long as the train continues to stop there, that’s what’s important, not the decor and furniture.
It took me three trains to reach La Roche, but I didn’t mind at all. I enjoy travelling by train; I arrive at my destination considerably more relaxed than by car, after spending the time reading a book and drinking a coffee.
Immediately upon leaving the station you are in the countryside of Brabant Wallon, and lovely countryside it is too.
For ten kilometres you will walk through some pretty copses, criss-cross the River Dijle, cast admiring glances at picturesque cottages, dit bonjour to some equally pretty horses, stretch your legs on some gentle ups-and-downs, and generally come to the conclusion that this is an extremely pleasant walk.
Second Half (Genappe to Nivelles)
How different this stretch is! Basically it consists of walking along farm tracks through heavily cultivated lands full of potatoes, wheat, potatoes, barley, potatoes, maize, potatoes, potatoes and potatoes.
Some tracks are so straight that a passing Roman would turn green with envy. Part of the route runs so close to a busy and noisy motorway that you can’t even hear yourself complaining.
And everywhere seems so sterile. In the whole of ten kilometres the only significant observations were two yellow wagtails flying overhead (probably heading for somewhere more interesting), one rabbit, and a few butterflies vainly trying to find a wild flower that had managed to resist being nitrated to death.
Now and again I heard grasshoppers reeling away in the grass. And there was a small murder of crows in one field, presumably looking for the grasshoppers to crunch.
But apart from that. Not a lot …
If you are simply wanting a pleasant country walk, then you might want to walk the first half to Genappe twice. In other words, walk to Genappe, look around the village, maybe seek some refreshment there, and then turn around and retrace your steps to La Roche. Walks always look completely different when you do them in the other direction, which is not surprising as you have a totally different viewpoint.
Of course, if completing the GR 121 is one of your objectives, you simply have to grin and bear it. Not every walk of every long-distance footpath is exhilarating, and you just have to make the best of the bits that aren’t. And no matter how boring parts of a path can be, it will involve a healthy dose of fresh air and exercise, which is always good.
Below is the map of the route, which you can download as a PDF. Total distance is 20 km. The GPX track is on my RouteYou page.
Either way, let me know how you get it; I would be most interested. If you enjoy these posts on Discovering Belgium, you could always buy me a coffee which I’d appreciate greatly! And if you are not yet subscribed, add your email below to get new posts in your inbox. Thanks! Denzil
I love this pictures of Walloon (Wallonie)
The first half looks very appealing. And I appreciate the honesty of your description of the second half. The huge potato fields look very much like some of the farms on the Genesee River flats, south of Rochester, NY, just a sea of monotonous Roundup-resistant soybeans, very dull company. But the first stretch after leaving La Roche looks like a wonderful place for a ramble. Hope you are having a wonderful weekend, RPT
Hi Robert, good to hear from you as always. Yes these monotonous fields can be quite dull. Even around the edges there is often little life. Hope you’re doing well in New York State. Happy belated 4th July!
Thanks Denzil, we’re having a nice wet summer, hiking in a lot of mud, but nice and verdant, after last year’s drought.
It’s a good point you make, Denzil. You have to sometimes take the bad with the good. The first half looks well worth doing. Is the Brabant related to the motor car of the same name, by any chance? Many thanks for sharing 🙂 🙂
That’s right Jo. Especially with long-distance walks. I have never heard of the Brabant car. Might you be thinking of the Trabant, which I think is an old East German or Russian car?
Oh, yes! Silly me 🙁 They do a Trabant tour in Krakow.
What beauty and calm!
You are right Rosaliene. I experienced a lot of peace that day which was very uplifting. Even amongst the potato fields! 🙂
Belgium is such a beautiful country to discover and to walk. I always enjoy your posts, Denzil. The photos are gorgeous.
You’re too kind Sharon, thank you for the compliments.
I loved your reference to Romans and their tendency for straight roads. Perhaps the first half of this walk would be enough for me.
Did the Romans ever get as far as Toowoomba Carol? 😉
We do have lots of straight roads here but not as far as I know, Denzil.ðŸ˜ They were probably like many modern Europeans and decided it was too far to travel.
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At least the potato harvest will be better than they tried to make us believe 😉 Although I can imagine that the drought was worse in West-Flanders. The cherry trees near Landen were bursting with fruit, yet the price in the shop makes you think there is a shortage. All in all a lovely walk, isn’t it? Looking forward to the next stage to Braine-le-Comte. Regards!
Yes, cherry prices rarely seem to come down to something more acceptable. Good to hear the trees were bursting with fruit, especially after the spring frosts. I see you are out and about a lot these days, which is great. You seem to be making the most of your retirement Guido.
Enjoying my recovery from a neck hernia to the full 😀
Thanks both of you!
Tof artikel.Ik ken de streek vrij goed ga er ak 30 jaar wandelen en kamperen.Heel mooie foo’s van, de wandeling
Bedankt. Ja het is een mooie streek, en ook rustig. Ik denk ik heb niemand gezien op voet of fiets.
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very nice place
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