A pleasant 9k walk along the River Dijle which flows through Sint-Agatha-Rode, named after the patron saint of breast cancer.
The 86-kilometre long River Dijle rises near Nivelles in Wallonia but soon crosses the language border into Flanders a few kilometers south of the village of Sint-Agatha-Rode. Here the river drunkenly zigzags through the fertile Flemish fields before sobering up and straightening up as if in reverence to its next ports of call: the cathedral towns of Leuven and Mechelen.
Around Sint-Agatha-Rode the Dijle’s sharp bends have over the centuries become inaccessible to local farmers and are thus pockets of wildness. When I visited this area in August the riverside was a mass of Himalayan balsam. This relative of the garden Busy Lizzie is actually an unwanted introduction. But I can’t help liking it. Its purple or pink helmet-shaped flowers are attractive. And its seed pods are such fun; when ripe they burst explosively with the faintest of touches.
The village is named after Saint Agatha, the Christian martyr who was born in Sicily, and died there in AD 251. Among the tortures she endured was the removal of her breasts. In paintings she is often depicted carrying her breasts on a plate. It’s no surprise that Agatha is the patron saint for breast cancer. Less obvious is why she’s also the patron saint of bakers. This job may have been added to her CV from the mistaken impression that the paintings showed her carrying nor her breasts but two bread rolls.
I assumed that the “rode” in the village name was linked with Agatha’s spilt blood, but I was way off target. It’s from the Dutch word “rooiing”, which means to grub up or uproot. It simply refers to the digging up of trees in the 11th century to make way for the village.
The village church dates from the 13th century but has been restored multiple times through the years.
In 1578, iconoclasts set it on fire. In the Second World War the nearby Dijle Bridge was dynamited, simultaneously blowing out many of the church’s stained glass windows. More resistant to the blast was the magnificent vrijheidsboom (liberty tree) in front of the church, which was planted in 1830 to mark the independence of Belgium. Since then it’s reached a height of over 30 metres and a girth of nearly five metres.
A pleasant 9 km walk encircles Sint-Agatha-Rode and is excellently signposted. As always, you can download it as a PDF. And get the GPX track for your device from my RouteYou page.
Along the way you can stop off at the Grootbroek, a 30-hectare man-made lake and nature reserve. Despite its large expanse (hence its name), the Grootbroek is shallow, making it a favoured eatery for waders, herons and egrets — particularly in the spring and autumn migration periods. Overlooking the Grootbroek is a very smart wooden bird observation hide. It even has posters and info flyers available — amazingly graffiti-free.
The walk continues through the Rodebos (the Rode Forest), where in 1907 the remnants of a Roman villa were discovered.
On the return path you get to walk alongside another river — the Lane — which flows into the Dijle just north of the village.
Amazingly, there used to be 40 cafés in Sint-Agatha-Rode! Hang on, that bears thinking about. 40 cafés in what is a fairly smallish village, currently of just over 1500 people? That’s one café for every 40 people! Obviously a thirsty lot.
One of the cafés has been converted into a nice-looking B&B on the Leuvensebaan: The House of Rooi.
Established two years ago by local midwife Benedicte Vansina, it has attracted guests from as far afield as Mexico, Japan and South Africa. “Business people regularly stay here as their ‘second home’ because we are so much more cosy than a hotel,” Benedicte told me. “Tourists are attracted by the peaceful countryside, and the endless local walking, cycling and mountain biking routes.”
An in the evening? Thankfully at least one café is still open: and it’s right next to The House of Rooi.
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Nice read – yet another place to add to our list to visit!
Thanks Kevin. It was a bit warmer when I visited it!
Wonderful photos! It makes me long for spring even more. The water and the green
Yes, me too Gunnar. That’s why I thought I’d remind us Europeans of warmer times!
and very close to Sint-Joris-Weert; I’m thinking of puzzling together a nice walk there that includes both villages. Nice blog entry with lots of background info 🙂
I still can’t get over the village’s 40 cafes Guido. Do you think that was fairly normal for a Flemish village to have so many cafes? What do you remember of cafes where you were a boy?
Denzil, I live in a village of 1000 inhabitants; it used to have as many. CafÃ©s were often run by the wives of men who went out to work and also sold bottles of beer to take away. A second income so to speak. So, yes I think it was fairly normal. I’ll ask my friend, though, who was born and raised here.
I guess these cafÃ©s were different to what we now know as cafÃ©s. From what you are saying, maybe they could have been no more than a front or back room open to the public, but I guess they had to be licensed and legal, yes?
I guess a licence was not so difficult to acquire and what with the village copper as your regular customer 😉
Nice pictures. I am wonder what reasons they tortured Agatha so severe liked that.
She was a Christian at a time of severe persecution. She refused to renounce her faith, and refused to give sexual favors to a ruler called Quintian, who imprisoned her and then tortured her.
How horrible. The town is lovely but the story is terrifying~
Absolutely gruesome isn’t it. Yesterday’s women’s marches reminded us that cruelty to women is still ongoing, in many shapes and forms.
I would enjoy staying at The House Of Rooi, especially with a cafe right next door! Thanks for taking us on another lovely walk, Denzil.
My pleasure Carol. Thanks for coming along.
Such a pretty walk, Denzil 🙂 Who’d be a saint, though?
You’re right there Jo. Thankfully I am very far from even getting close to the long list!
Wonderful photos and evocative story. I had not heard of saint Agatha. Such a sad tale. Thanks for sharing your journey with us. Makes me want to pack a bag and travel there too.
Thanks for coming along on the journey Karen. Yes, such a sad sad tale, This happened in Sicily by the way in the 3rd century.
Wonderful entry about a charming village – and I love the info about St. Agatha the lady, even if I find her tray of delicacies a bit odd – I’ll have to do a bit of research about her. As for all the cafes – with so much walking to see everything, I guess people get thirsty. Your photos are always beautiful.
Thanks Sharon. Yes the tray is rather gruesome isn’t it. Imagine trying to get around all 40 cafes in a day!
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What a wonderful summer walk. I really appreciate you telling us all about these great paths and surroundings, Denzil. Who knew there was so much to see and do in Belgium, nature-wise? I am coming back to all your Walking posts whenever I visit home again. And then, I will have the difficult task of picking just a couple. 🙂
Youâ€™re so kind Liesbet. But donâ€™t ask me to pick a couple: I would find that hard too. Do you return to Belgium often?
I try to visit my friends and family once a year, but never know whether it will happen “this year” until I find a good gap and great plane ticket prices… 🙂 I do prefer summer visits, though.
The village is so beautiful, but the story is terrifying…
Isn’t it just! But then terrifying things are still done against women even today.
So interesting to read about our neighbouring villages. I’ve written a few posts about this beautiful region in Dutch. 🙂
Thanks for stopping by Anna. Ik moet jouw blog nu goed lezen.
Maar je spreekt Nederlands ðŸ˜Š
Hello Denzil! I’ve only known about Belgium for its chocolate so this will be a lovely journey to partake with your colourful stories. And I’ve learnt something new about your Patron Saint ðŸŒŸðŸŒŸðŸŒº
Thanks for stopping by Di, and I hope you enjoy discovering Belgium as much as I do.
You are very welcome. And I’ve no doubt I will, Denzil ðŸŒŸðŸŒŸðŸŒŸðŸŒº
Just out of interest Di, in which country are you living? I couldn’t work it out from your “About”. If you want to keep it secret, you can be vague. Planet Earth will do fine.
Ah Denzil… good point! I’m assuming those from Instagram were only going to be my followers and they know I’m Australian. Thank you. Maybe I’d best update it. No, I don’t mind you asking at all. I’m an open book. Ask anything. Enjoy your day over there. Hope the days are beginning to appear longer for you now? ðŸŒŸðŸŒŸðŸŒº
That’s good to know. Yes, Spring is in sight, while over there I guess you are beginning to cool off.
Well, it’s supposed to be cooling off this week but we’ve actually had the warmest week all summer. But the mornings are dark earlier for sure. Enjoy your week Denzil. (I’ll be attempting to add a photo so I’m not so anonymous) ðŸ™‚ðŸŒº
Sorry for not getting back earlier Di. I found four comments from you in the Spam folder! Strange, as other comments from you were accepted. Anyway, here I am, and there’s your photo!
Oh it’s probably me meddling, Denzil! So sorry.
Thank you for a lovely reply ðŸŒŸðŸŒŸ
Belgium was always a place to visit on my bucket list. Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for visiting, Ewelina!
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